Furniture care

Classic finish is a penetrating oil that requires minimal maintenance to keep it looking fresh for as long as you own it. Classic finish allows the inevitable scratches and abrasions to be almost invisible when compared to a traditional "sealed" finish (such as lacquer or varnish). In keeping with the lifetime expectancy you count on from Crate Designs, Classic is a finish that has a matching durability. Classic finish will not chip or flake off and can be renewed indefinitely. For normal maintenance we recommend dusting with a slightly water dampened cloth. While the tradeoff is that stains from things such as mustard or red wine can discolour the surfaces if allowed to sit and penetrate, heavily soiled areas can be cleaned with a damp abrasive sponge. Always try your cleaning method on an inconspicuous area first! For tough to remove stains combine the abrasive sponge with a cleaner (for example Fantastik or Orange Glo). The use of abrasive sponges and cleaners may require applying a new coat of oil. We recommend a clear oil, such as MinWax Teak or Tung oil. Keep in mind that applying oil too frequently will build a gloss finish.

Unfinished furniture is available to allow you to personalize our furniture. Unfinished means the wood will arrive bare and meant to have a custom wood finish applied before use. Bare wood is not meant to be used as is because it is difficult to keep clean. Even the natural oils that rub off from people's hands will cause discolouration over time that can be difficult to remove.

Premium finishes (Brindle, Cloud, Espresso, Graphite, Storm): Premium finishes must be treated with care. For normal maintenance we recommend dusting with a slightly water dampened nonabrasive cloth or nonabrasive sponge. Gentle cleaners can be used. Always try your cleaning method on an inconspicuous area first! Cleaners containing bleach or other harsh chemicals should not be used.

Lacquer finish (Available on the tops only of some models): An optional lacquer finish is available for most tops. Lacquer provides greater moisture resistance and easier cleaning on tabletops. It is not as forgiving as the standard Classic oil finish or Premium finishes when it comes to scrapes or scratches. Most repairs will require the services of a professional refinisher. The combination of a lacquer finish on the top and our standard oil finish on the base of the item will give you the best durability.
Lacquered tops should be cleaned with a slightly water dampened nonabrasive cloth or sponge. While a lacquer finish is easier to clean spills from food & beverages as well as offering more moisture resistance than our Classic finish it is not waterproof or stain-proof. Excess moisture or damp articles should be removed and the surface dried quickly. Moisture left on these surfaces will cause permanent damage.

Regardless of the finish you choose, clean up spills and stains immediately to prevent permanent damage. Never place hot objects directly onto wood. Always use coasters or protective materials when placing anything hot or wet on your furniture. Wipe up water or other liquids immediately. Protect your furniture from direct exposure to sunlight.
Cracks and Gaps are normal in Crate Designs furniture. The furniture construction has been designed with this in mind. It would be very unusual for a gap or crack to be a cause for concern.

Some suggested cleaning remedies: (Caution – any of these techniques or products should be tried on an inconspicuous surface first).

Mr. Clean Magic Eraser products have been used successfully to remove tough stains, such as ink, crayon etc.

Candle Wax: Gently scrape away as much wax as you can using your finger, a plastic kitchen scraper, or a stiff piece of cardboard. Note: too much pressure will scratch the wood. Applying ice cubes in a plastic bag to the wax may help it to crumble. Remove remaining traces of wax with a cloth moistened with mineral spirits (paint thinner). Re-oil entire surface area.
Ink & Other Stains: If ink is spilled or used to mark wood it will penetrate and become almost impossible to remove. The following methods may be helpful should a stain occur. Blot the spot immediately before the ink has a chance to penetrate the wood. Do Not Rub--keep turning the cloth to prevent smearing. 
If stain remains:
1. Try a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser
2. Try removing ink with hair spray – it often works!
3. Table salt on a damp cloth can remove blood stains.
4. Mineral spirits (paint thinner) will remove some crayon and oil based stains.
5. Apply a mixture of 1 part bleach to 4 parts water. Allow the solution to stand a few minutes and remove. The solution works slowly, so give it time to work on the stain. It may also bleach out part of the natural color. The bleach will work better if the spot is sanded lightly before application. (CAUTION: Bleach is poisonous. Follow label directions.)


Vacuum regularly! Accumulated dust, pet hair and soiling are the major causes of fabric wear. To prolong the life of your mattress, it should be turned, to equalize wear. Every second month flip it end to end.

HealthCare Severe mattress cleaning instructions

Upholstery Tips

Vacuum regularly! Accumulated dust, pet hair and soiling are the major causes of fabric wear. Turn your seat and back cushions over weekly, to help keep covers aligned and to equalize wear. As well, switch the position of cushions to lessen the premature wearing of any one in particular. Attached back pillows should be “punched” or “patted” back into shape as required. If the fabric on your cushions becomes stained or soiled, we recommend that you leave the covers on the cushions and hire a professional cleaner. 

View cleaning instructions for fabrics in the description of the fabric.